NEOUVIELLE, A PYRENEAN WONDER
At your leisure, from lake to lake.

Fifteen minutes after the hut, you will encounter the first of the many lakes that will punctuate your journey (Lake Agalops). A quick ascent through a valley dotted with scattered meadows and rocky scree will lead you to Hourquette Nère (2465m). At that point, you will sense that you have truly entered the lakeside world of Neouvielle: at your feet, Lake Nère (black, in Occitan, because it is deep and dark), followed by the shimmering chain of the small lakes of Port-Bielh; to your left, the lake of Port Bielh. Above you, slightly to the right and in the distance, the imposing peaks of Maladeta and Aneto will dominate the horizon. And all around, the intricate network of meadows, pine canopies, and rocky scree. After reaching and walking along Lake Port-Bielh, you will climb the short but steep ascent to Hourquette de Caderolles (2495m). From there, once again, a beautiful panorama: a string of lakes (Lake of Hourquette, Lake Arredoun, and their satellites). In the distance, the plain will seem to float like a mirage, a faraway memory already.

After a picnic at Lake Hourquette (feet in the water?), you will begin the slow descent towards the Campana de Cloutou Hut (2225m). The kindness of the caretakers, the beauty and functionality of the building, and the tranquility of the site will charm you lasting impressions.

The start of the hike is in the opposite direction of the previous day (GR10). Once you reach Lake Hourquette, you will enter terra incognita. The GR10 climbs through meadows and scree. Be sure to scan the slopes below Pic de Portarras, as you might be lucky enough to spot one or more izards! From the Col de Bastanet (2509m), your view will stretch far over the Bastan lakes. Their shimmering mirrors will stand out with perfect clarity against the scree waves flowing from the summits of Bastanet (2715m) and Portarras (2697m). After descending below the Col de Bastanet and crossing the short chaos, you will reach the Upper Lake and vast fields of alpine meadows. Here, nature is less harsh, more welcoming with its meadows and clusters of wind-swept pines. Don't hesitate to stop at the Bastan Hut. The welcome is warm, and the place is charming. And what about the view from the west terrace? It’s magical. Superb. Perfect.

This place may inspire you to picnic. If you're looking for some solitude, we can recommend a delightful spot between pines, lakes, and rhododendrons. The atmosphere there is unforgettable. Then, the descent will take you to the Lower Lake, where you can admire its dark depth. A few hairpin bends through the meadows and the edge of a pine forest, and you will overlook the long Oule Lake. At this point, you will be almost there. A flat trail will allow you to stretch your legs all the way to the Oule Hut (1820m).

In the early morning, enjoy the peaceful symphony of the forest. Then, you’ll climb up to the Vallon d’Estibère, a steady ascent through dense vegetation. Your efforts will be rewarded by discovering a valley once closed to human presence, giving it an Eden-like feel. The pines seem ancient, and the peat bogs hide winding paths where trout swim swiftly beneath your feet. You'll want to stop and take photos everywhere! As you continue, you’ll reach a series of secret lakes, their beauty reminiscent of old Japanese prints. It’s a perfect spot for a picnic.

Next, you’ll reach a pass and join the GR10, which takes you through the pine forest along the ridge. Occasionally, the shimmering Lake Orédon will catch your eye, inviting you for a swim. A short but steep descent through the forest will bring you to the Orédon Hut (1850m), completing a wonderful day.

An alternative route is also possible: if you want an easier hike, follow the GR10 along the left side of the lake. A short climb through a beech and fir forest will lead you to the Col d’Estoudou (2260m). From there, it’s a quick walk to the Oredon Hut. After dropping off your backpack, you can head toward the Laquettes and the Aubert Lakes for a round-trip hike (see next day's description).

Short Option: Today, you can take a shuttle bus from Orédon Lake (where you spent the night) to Aubert Lake, saving about an hour of walking. After that, the route is the same as the classic one.

Classic Route: Get ready for a full day of walking. Start early to reach your destination without rushing. Enjoy the calm and serenity of dawn as you pass the Laquettes, beautiful areas of lakes and peat bogs surrounded by granite. Take in the peaceful presence of Aubert and Aumar Lakes. Then, you’ll begin the slow climb to Hourquette d’Aubert (2498m), through a granite chaos, followed by a path that runs along the southern side of Pic dets Coubous (2647m). The view from the Hourquette is breathtaking: to the south, you’ll see Aumar and Aubert Lakes, the Laquettes, the sharp ridges of Pic de Néouvielle, and in the distance, the majestic Gourgs Blancs Peaks (3129m) and, on the horizon, Aneto (3404m).

Vers le nord, le paysage est plus minéral, et seul le lac d'Estagnol apporte une touche de douceur. Le sentier de descente poursuit sa biffure avant de remonter vers un passage masqué permettant d'accéder à la dernière partie du parcours de la journée. Le sentier sinue tranquillement dans le moutonnement des affleurements rocheux. L'atmosphère est paisible, parmi les rhododendrons et la pelouse rase. Après avoir croisé le lac de Mounicot, vous trouverez à vos pieds le lac de la Glère. Le refuge est au-dessus... Il vous faudra encore gravir une dernière pente... mais la vue, depuis la terrasse du refuge (2153m), vers le le Pic de la Coume de l'Ours (2855m), le Turon de Néouvielle (3035m), le Pic des Trois Conseillers (3039m), ou les crêtes de l'Espade est époustouflante.

It’s the return to civilization, to the world below. And this return might be bittersweet. It’s no coincidence that the descent starts with an ascent, as if resisting the inevitable. It’s like stealing a moment to delay the end of the journey, an unwillingness to leave the mountains. So, you’ll gaze at the peaks, left and right. The last photo will be of the final lake, Coume Escure. Then, at the fork that will take you back to other lakes and the summit of Turon de Neouvielle, you’ll reluctantly slide into the Vallon de Bolou. You’ll realize you’re leaving the magical world of Neouvielle, as you can already glimpse the valley of Luz-Saint-Sauveur below.

The clear, joyful sound of the Bolou stream will comfort you. If you listen closely, it seems to invite you back, to speak of other lakes, other cols and peaks. Further down, you’ll pass a water intake monitoring station, a reminder of the vast underground hydroelectric world. The valley widens, covered with rhododendrons and bilberries, and a few trees break the monotony. At the Sardiche Hut, you’ll find some shade.

Next, you’ll cross the stream to head along the right bank, entering the ancient pastoral world: hay meadows, barns, and irrigation channels. Suddenly, the village of Luz-Saint-Sauveur will appear around a bend in the trail, through the leafy woods. You’ll follow the old thermal paths, dating back to the 18th century, leading to the Vallon de Lumiere. After a few hairpin bends in the steep slopes lined with powerful beech trees, you’ll see the village of Bareges below.

A short transfer will take you to a delicious dinner in a restaurant that highlights local products. And a night in a hotel that, while it may have the name, feels more like a charming vacation home with exceptional comfort!

Sweet dreams, even though you’ve just lived one of the most beautiful experiences!